A Visit to Zata'ari with Questscope

On Monday January 11th, three Oberlin students were able to visit Zata'ari refugee camp in northern Jordan to participate in programming run by Questscope, an NGO active in the camp. We thank Questscope for their generous offer to host us and introduce us to their volunteers and  beneficiaries and wanted to make special note of the warmth, sensitivity, and capacity demonstrated by their volunteer team.

The drive to Zata'ari Refugee Camp included views of vast sandy fields speckled with litter and the occasional goat herder. Ellyn and I shared the drive with two female employees of Questscope and discussed a variety of topics including history classes, college education, and daily life working for Questscope. The further away we drove from Amman, the fewer buildings we saw It was quite warm outside and no clouds blocked the sun as the camp appeared in the distance twenty minutes prior to our arrival, the white buildings gleaming in the sunlight. It looked so clean from this distance, but as we approached, the white blob fell apart into distinct caravans of varying shades of grays and browns.

Inside Zata'ari

Zata'ari camp is surrounded by a wall topped with barbed wire and would take about two hours to walk around by foot. There were a multitude of guards by the entrance, where our car was stopped at the entrance and we were asked to procure our temporary Questscope volunteer badges. The drive to the Questscope center within Zata'ari revealed to me a brief glimpse into the everyday life within in the camp. Many children were out and about running and playing in the open spaces between caravans. We passed pop-up barbershops, convenience produce stores, and occasional rack of clothes. I noticed one man on a bicycle but otherwise everyone was moving on foot and moving out of the way for the trucks and cars roving in between the caravans. Several little kids ran up and waved at the car, flashing genuine smiles. The arrival to the Questscope center provided the first opportunity to interact with residents in the camp.

Upon arrival, our group was greeted by the leaders and instructors of all the different areas within the UNFPA-funded Youth Center, who provided an enlightening and informative tour. The center provides multiple resources residents, including: life skills, responding to gender-based violence (GBV), peer education training, art, music and fitness activities, a peer mentoring program, a soccer field, a library, and computer room. The Life Skills room held workshops and provided role-playing scenarios on topics including GBV and reproductive health (RH). The Art and Music Center provided beginning music instruction and instruction in numerous forms of media. The gym had hours and instruction at separate times for both men and women so that both could participate in physical activities. The psycho-social support (PSS) caravan offered those from the ages of 15-17 individual and group support from a peer mentor. The soccer field had recently been fenced and covered, which allowed girls to play soccer as well without being seen by any male members of the center. The library had a range of books to inspire and educate on various topics and included biographies and poetry of prominent Jordanian figures that all members of the camp were allowed to borrow out and request further materials. Finally, the computer lab had two rows of computers that offered video editing, Photoshop, and other computer science instruction. We were especially impressed with the volunteer team members, who seemed incredibly vibrant, positive, and capable.

Camille Backman, the author, performing at a Questscope caravan

After the tour of the center, Mohit, Ellyn, and I took out our instruments and began to warm up for the concert that took place in the art area of the center. The concert area filled up mostly with young female residents of Zata'ari camp, but the audience also included male leaders from different areas of the center. I began by playing a solo Bach composition and providing a brief introduction to the composer. After the Bach, the program included two solo Spanish guitar pieces, a flute and guitar duet by Ibert, a trio for violin, flute and guitar by Kreutzer, and a solo guitar piece by Koyunbaba. The audience was attentive and after I finished performing and was listening in the audience the younger girls would occasionally look back at me with smiles on their faces. Several members of the center asked us to pose for selfies and for pictures with them. At this point in the day, we went to the administrative portion of the center and had a lunch of numerous pizzas made of pita and an assortment of meats and cheeses.

            After lunch, there was about an hour before we were scheduled to leave and it was in this time that I had the most interaction with the residents of the camp. I befriended a small boy about the age of four, and we ran around with a football. During this time, I became aware of laughing and shouting coming from the soccer field. I stuck my head inside and to my delight was invited to engage in a soccer game with several of the young girls who live in the camp. Language was not a barrier; we all ran around and laughed and yelled when we missed the goal or made a shot. The girls were so excited to have Ellyn and I on their teams and I felt like I could truly connect and experience a happy moment with them. When I left to say goodbye, several of them gave me hugs kisses on my cheeks. Driving away filled me with a throng of happy and sad emotions, but mostly with the overwhelming feeling of gratitude to be able to visit the camp and have the opportunity to bring our music there. The entire experience truly affirmed my certainty that music truly provides bridges between different cultures and experiences and will continue to allow me to connect to many more people in this life.

Ellyn Butler, Mohit Dubey, and Camille Backman perform at a Questscope caravan